Scott Hamilton Thursday, May 27 Namche Bazaar, Nepal

The Monsoon seems to have come early to Nepal, as heavy rains have fallen each day and night since our arrival in Deboche Village. The Lukla airstrip, gateway to the Khumbu region has been virtually shut for almost a week, stranding hundreds of trekkers and expeditioners in the remote village. The E-3 team completed its last full day of medical research in Namche Bazzar on 5/25, and was pleased to be able to meet with Dr. Jim Litch of the Khunde Medical Center, which is located nearby. The Khunde Clinic serves thousands of individuals throughout the Khumbu region and was in desperate need of a quality microscope. The E-3 project was pleased to be able to donate our spare OLYMPUS microscope to such a worthwhile project serving so many people.

A Weather Prayer: From Namche the E-3 team descended over 4,000 vertical feet to the rain swept village of Phakding, our last stop enroute to Lukla. As the weather continued to be terrible, with rampant rain and low clouds, expedition leader Scott Hamilton decided it was time for a new plan. High above the village of Phakding there was reported to be a small Bhuddist Monastery, perched in the clouds atop a tall ridge. Deciding a "weather prayer" was desirable he set off alone on a two-hour quest to find the Monastery. Climbing through the cloud layers he ascended a narrow path through a seemingly enchanted forest of tangled trees and roots. Near dusk he finally found the Cholung Monastery, built in the 12th Century and currently inhabited by only four monks. There were no lights or signs of life as he pounded on the wide wooden door, standing in the rain, in the twilight. Finally the door opened and he was greeted by a young monk, Lama Pasang Sherpa, who granted him entry to the Gompa. A small puja (prayer) service was requested for "the safe passage of the E-3 expedition members back to their homes", a donation was made, along with a promise to send prayer flags to the Monastery. Lama Sherpa agreed. On the descent back to the E-3 campsite he met two more of the monks from the Monastery, including Lama Sangpo. The Puja wouldn't take place until 8am the next day, so its full effect could not take place until the 27th, the day of our intended departure from Lukla.

The Blind Man of Munjo: One of the more interesting medical cases encountered by the E-3 project was a young man of 26. Dr. Jennifer Grin performed a visual examination on the young schoolteacher and determined that he was nearly blind. A peticular and unusual case, and one she felt might be surgically treated. Dr. Ken Kamler has excellent relations with a leading eye surgeon in Katmandu, and the E-3 team members collectively agreed to sponsor the cost of bringing the young man with us to Katmandu for treatment. Miraculously, he showed up as pre-arranged in Munjo Village, along our route, and joined our entourage trekking to Lukla. Our friends at Himalayan HealthCare will take care of him in Katmandu, and see him safely back to his village after treatment.

Escape from Lukla: As the E-3 team entered Lukla Village on the evening of the 26th things seemed pretty grim. Over one hundred trekkers were stranded in the Village due Monsoon weather conditions and the lack of flights. Many had given up all hope and started a miserable five-day trek to Jiri, where they could take a public bus back to Katmandu. The E-3 team housed in a local tea shop for an interesting night of howling dogs, crowing roosters, drunks beating drums in the muddy streets and (no kidding) the sound of rats climbing trough the walls next to the beds. In a series of late evening conversations and transactions we hatched a plan to escape from Lukla. We bartered spare engine oil, some food items, a bit of baksheesh, and played heavily on friendships forged on past expeditions to Nepal. The plan was good, but the weather is the ultimate authority, and the Monsoon rains were thundering down all night.

Up at 4:30am the E-3 team crept out of our lodge and quietly made our way to the infamous Lukla airstrip. As the sun rose a miracle occurred. The clouds parted and the sun began to shine. A short while later we put four E-3 members on a "Yeti Airlines" twin otter and watched them disappear toward the West. During the brief interval Dr. Chris Macedonia and Dr. Javier Davila were asked to examine a young girl. She had been abandoned at age 14, then subsequently adopted by the local Lama. A year ago she had a fever, and was stricken by a mysterious paralysis. Their diagnosis was Polio, which is still a major health problem in Nepal. It is easy to forget how good the health care is in the USA until you see a child suffering from an incurable disease that could be easily prevented by routine immunization.

A while later the Russian MI-17 helicopter arrived at Lukla. It was carrying a full load of cargo to Syangboche but couldn't land there because of clouds. A bit of conversation ensued, and the Russian pilots agreed to let us unload their cargo (no small task, as it was 3,000 kilograms of building materials) and replace it with E-3 gear bound for Katmandu...the Gods' seemed to be with us. We crammed everything possible into the chopper, then added five expedition members for a ride to remember on "Cosmic Air". The helicopter seemed to shake excessively during the flight, but we arrived safely at Katmandu. (After landing the pilots seemed quite worried though, and climbed under the engine cowling with a bunch of wrenches) Our final three members and the blind man from Munjo got seats on the last oversold Yeti flight from Lukla.

The entire E-3 team and all of our baggage and medical research equipment are now safe and sound in Katmandu. Yes, we did send prayer flags to Lama Pasang Sherpa at the Cholung Monastery before we left Lukla. It has been an amazing day...

Scott Hamilton