The Mother of all avalanches cascaded down from near the summit
of Pumori early in the morning. The E-3 team watched a massive
block of blue ice break off from near the summit and descend with
an intense thunder-like roar as it gathered momentum, crashing
down the side of the mountain and stopping about a mile short
of Everest Base Camp. The avalanche was massive enough that it
dusted our camp with wind and snow. The previous day E-3 member
Robert Hyman had crossed the avalanche path to retrieve a radio
relay device from Pumori Base Camp. If anyone had been climbing
the standard route on Pumori (fortunately nobody was) they would
have become a climbing statistic almost instantly.
Post avalanche, the E-3 team spent the entire morning dismantling
or camp in a wild scene of expedition members, camp staff, porters
and yaks. Clearly our departure from Base Camp was the event of
the day, and many members of other expeditions stopped by to bid
the E-3 team farewell. By mid-morning the E-3 team was back on
the trail, for the long trek across the Khumbu Glacier, its lateral
moraine, and eventually back on solid ground. The team trekked
from Base Camp to Gorak Shep ("dead crow") then continued onward
in a driving afternoon snowstorm to Lobuche. Later in the evening
the clouds descended upon our camp, creating a fog like atmosphere
at our elevation of approximately 16,500'. After dark our headlamps
cut eerie cones of light in the moisture laden atmosphere, with
visibility limited to less than 100'. As temperatures dropped,
all our tents and equipment became covered with ice.
While only 1,000' feet below the elevation of Everest Base Camp,
the E-3 team is pleased to have spent its first night in almost
two weeks sleeping on solid ground, as opposed to ice at Base
Camp. The entire day of 5/21 is dedicated to additional high altitude
medical research activities at Lobuche, before continuing our
descent to Deboche and the land that lives below the clouds.
Scott Hamilton